Two weeks before the monsoons, the heat in northern India is overwhelming. To avoid overheating in hazy daytime temperatures of 45C and nights that only cooled to 37C we would sightsee for just four or five hours at a time. At midday we would retreat to our hotel and lie beneath circling fans in the darkness until our bodies cooled and the sun had begun to withdraw. Each day we would drink five or six litres of water between the two of us; trying to drink fast enough to finish the semi-frozen one litre bottle before the water heated to air temperature.
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