Vishnu Elephant God

The tiny village of Khajuraho, populated by 6,500 people in a country of one billion, has five luxury hotels and flights three times a week to Agra and Varanasi. As Khajuraho also houses 20 thousand year old temples dedicated to the erotic cult of Shakti, it is listed as a World Heritage site and is one of the very few places in India that attracts only the very wealthy, i.e. anyone who can afford the US $75 airfare. We arrived in the off season which meant that we, and our four fellow guests, attracted to sole attentions of the three rickshaw men and the bicycling university student who would sit outside the gates of the Jass Oberoi from 6 am until midnight, every day. They knew everyone in the hotel, which flight they had arrived and would leave on, which sites had been seen, souvenirs examined, prices paid, and even more importantly, the sites, shops and goods yet to be sampled.

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